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Flewellen A: The Will to Adorn

The Will to Adorn

Black Women and Sartorial Choice after Enslavement

Foundations of Fashion Studies

By the 1940s the New York fashion industry had come into its own. Sportswear, which had evolved from its origins to include simple casual wear for travel, leisure, town and country, was at the centre of this shift. Drawing on an array of sources, this book examines how New York sportswear evolved during the 1930s and 1940s to become the definitive American style. It reveals how designers such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser created a fashion identity for New York that was as dynamic and modern as the city itself. Author Rebecca Arnold interrogates the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed women and looks for the first time at how sportswear impacted and was impacted by ideas of patriotism and democracy, as well as its links to notions of cleanliness and hygiene, and to 1930s theories of body image and contemporary dance. As part of the Foundations of Fashion Studies series, this classic text now includes a new foreword by Emma McClendon and a new afterword and further reading list by the author.

Fashion, Sportswear and the Image of Women in 1930s and 1940s New York

The American Look

Penguin Modern Classics

'I am Black because I come from the earth's inside now take my word for jewel in the open light.' Impassioned and profound, the poems in Coal showcase Audre Lorde in all her dazzling elegance and multiplicity. Mournful, celebratory, politically conscious, this early collection faithfully captures the complex interiority of the self. With insight and great feeling, these poems explore racial and sexual politics, liberation and love; they are strongly autobiographical (including poems about Lorde's children, her sister and her parents, as well as an elegy for a dear childhood friend). These timeless poems resonate down the years.

Coal

I freed myself from your father, I thought this would be a new life for me and now it's starting all over, everything's starting all over again.The blazing new book from once-in-a-generation writer Édouard Louis, as he helps his mother escape from an abusive partner SELECTED AS A BOOK TO READ FOR 2026 BY THE FINANCIAL TIMES AND NEW STATESMANOne evening, during a writers' residency in Athens, Édouard receives a tearful phone call from his mother, Monique. She tells him that the man she lives with in Paris is abusive, inflicting upon her the same drunken behaviour as Édouard's father, repeating the same cycles of violence, shame and humiliation she fled from before. Step by step, they plan her escape, celebrating each small victory of Monique's new beginning. But how do you rebuild your life when you've never truly known freedom? Monique Escapes is an intimate and gripping portrait of a mother fighting for her self-determination, and of the son who becomes her ally. It is a story of reinvention, the price of liberty and the remaking of the relationship between a mother and a son who, despite the weight of their shared history, manage to find each other again.Translated by John Lambert'One of the most important, politically vital and morally bracing writers of his generation' GUARDIAN 'I feel so lucky to be living and writing at the same time as Édouard Louis' MAGGIE NELSON 'One of the major writers of our time' GARTH GREENWELL

Monique Escapes

How has fashion become such an important signifier of French nationhood? How has fashion journalism been used to mediate political ideologies like fascism? These questions and more are answered in the first book to comprehensively explore the interactions between fashion, the media, soft power, and nationhood. With a geographically diverse range of case studies and a unique focus on fashion journalism, Fashion and Power covers the origins of the relationship between fashion, cultural power, and national identity in 'courtly' societies, through the Cold War to the identities of emerging fashion nations such as China and Nigeria. Examining figures from 'La Jeune Fille Américaine' to First Ladies, Nelson Best argues how, in Susan Kaiser's words, 'representations of nation are built on the backs of women's bodies.' By exploring fashion journalism as a discourse of cultural power that shapes the identity of nations in different times and places, Fashion and Power reveals the contingency of these power relations and the possibility of their renegotiation. This accessible and highly engaging book is an invaluable resource not only for fashion studies students but also for those in media and cultural studies and anyone interested in fashion, identity, and power.

Industry, Journalism, and Nation

Fashion and Power

The first major biography on artist Louise Bourgeois brings the life and work of an iconic twentieth-century artist into sharp focus"The mischievous French artist comes alive in this deeply personal biography."-Chloë Ashby, Times (UK) &nbsp; Louise Bourgeois (1911-2010) was one of the most important artists of the twentieth century. She is known for a body of work that spans sculpture, painting, and printmaking but eludes any aesthetic classification. Her life and art were so intertwined that it is often difficult to tell them apart. In her own words: "Sculpture is the body. My body is the sculpture." &nbsp; Marie-Laure Bernadac's biography of Bourgeois traces the career of a great artist, her training, and her influences, as it tells the story of an exceptional woman's life. Featuring personal photographs as well as reproductions of her work, this landmark publication is the first major biography to draw on the artist's unpublished personal archives, including diaries, correspondence, and psychoanalytic writings, as well as the many interviews she gave and the reminiscences of those who knew her. Bernadac elucidates Bourgeois's friendships and rivalries with other major figures, including sculptor Louise Nevelson and Museum of Modern Art director Alfred H. Barr Jr. She also draws on Bourgeois's well-known fascination with psychoanalysis to explore the deeply autobiographical nature of her artwork. This erudite and keenly insightful biography pays tribute to the talent of the artist and the complexity of the person.

The Life of Louise Bourgeois

Knife-Woman

The Memoir of Concha Lombardo de Miramón, 1835–1869

A Feisty Woman

This book offers a powerful rethinking of long-term unemployment, focusing on everyday lived experiences that reveal how unemployed men make sense of deindustrialisation and prolonged joblessness. The book foregrounds Bakhtin's theory of resisting power through humour and dialogue, challenging prevailing psychological and individualistic narratives. It instead shows how men resist dominant activation discourses by voicing metaphors that reflect their embodied experiences. Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork in a post-industrial inner city Work Club, the book combines photographs, quotations and vignettes to illuminate the loss of largely masculine employment. It offers a critical analysis of agency and discourse, with new perspectives on how unemployed men resist and cope with their circumstances in ways that are often overlooked by mainstream theories.

Bakhtin, Carnivalesque and Metaphor

Resisting Unemployment Stigma

The Psychology of Everything

The Psychology of Culture Shock

The Business of Freedom tells the story of Black enterprise through the lives of the people who built it. Some, like Booker T. Washington and Madam C. J. Walker, are familiar figures in the history of Black business. But many are lesser-known strivers whose ambitions briefly illuminated the possibilities of the age. From the hopeful dawn of emancipation to the bustle of Harlem, award-winning historian Shennette Garrett-Scott follows Black entrepreneurs who carved opportunity out of exclusion to build banks, grocery stores, cotton mills, and real estate empires. Their successes were real, but so were the limits imposed by segregation, unequal access to capital, and the violence that shadowed Black prosperity. The Business of Freedom reveals Black capitalism as a strategy for both individual and collective empowerment-and shows why free enterprise alone could never deliver the freedom its champions promised.

The Golden Age of Black Capitalism

The Business of Freedom

Housing is more than bricks and mortar. Feeling at Home grapples with the practical and emotional questions of housing – domestic labour, privacy, security, ownership, and health. Is it possible to imagine success without home ownership? Alva Gotby shows that solving the housing crisis is about much more than housing stock. It means revolutionising our everyday lives and labours.

Transforming the Politics of Housing

Feeling at Home

How Trauma and Repair Transform Biology, Identity, and Women's Health

Beyond Beauty

From the author of Enemy Feminisms and Abolish the Family, an original diagnosis of femmephobia in our culture, and a vision of a life-giving femme feminism for all. 
 
To be femme is to embody a dispossessed femininity, to be freighted with freedom, to refuse to be made proper or institutionalized. To love it is to embrace love for women (be they butch or not) in the broadest sense. In Femmephilia, Sophie Lewis makes the case for the vital importance of politicized femme-ness: a feminism that is self-consciously artificial, extravagant in its erotic and political appetites, and staunchly anti-work, abolitionist, and utopian. Femme labors deserve our care, respect, and support, but instead face dismissal from masculinist antagonists and feminist allies alike. 
 
Where neoliberal women's empowerment has failed to combat the eruption of right-wing, anti-trans, and anti-feminist attacks, Lewis argues that femmephilia can help us imagine a radical future. In essays on the high femme genius of Marilyn Monroe and trans yearning in the myth of Apollo and Daphne; on octopuses and girlbosses, reluctant heterosexuals, lesbian separatists, and anti-work cats; and on a mother on strike from maternity, Femmephilia offers a new logic of liberation for all feminized people.

Love Letters to Trans Mermaids, Queer Mothers, and Marilyn Monroe

Femmephilia

The Will to Adorn

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