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Flewellen A: The Will to Adorn

The Will to Adorn

Black Women and Sartorial Choice after Enslavement

Anthem Series on Development in Africa and the Diaspora

Narrates the story of Cape Town's Africa Café and introduces the Sustainable Entrepreneurship Framework for Africa (SEFA), explaining how excluded entrepreneurs build and convert social, cultural, human, and political capital into financial capital across Africa and its diaspora.
In 1992, in a small house in Cape Town's Observatory neighborhood, Portia Mbau began serving dishes gathered from her travels across the continent. What began as a family venture grew, with her brother Hector's marketing and brand vision, into the Africa Café, a celebrated cultural enterprise at Heritage Square that seated the world at a communal table for nearly three decades before closing in the collapse of global travel in 2020. This book is the first full-length scholarly study of that enterprise: what one family built, what it meant, and what it teaches. 
The book is built on primary interviews with Hector Mbau and sustained fieldwork in Cape Town, including the township of Langa. From this single richly documented case, it develops an original theoretical contribution, the Sustainable Entrepreneurship Framework for Africa (SEFA). SEFA integrates the five forms of capital (social, human, cultural, financial, and political) with the constraints of post-colonial economies and the linked processes of value creation and value capture. Its central mechanism, capital conversion under constraint, explains how entrepreneurs excluded from formal finance build the forms of capital available to them and convert them, through the value they create, into the financial capital the system withheld. The framework is stated in testable propositions, with explicit boundary conditions. The argument then travels. Comparative chapters set the Africa Café alongside township enterprise, continental African entrepreneurship, and the historic Black business districts of the United States, from Greenwood in Tulsa to Parrish Street in Durham, Jackson Ward in Richmond, Sweet Auburn in Atlanta, and Farish Street in Jackson, districts that built every form of capital except the political capital that might have protected them. A full chapter grounds the framework in the philosophy of Ubuntu, engaging both its promise and its critics. The book speaks to scholars and students of entrepreneurship, management, African studies, and development; to policymakers concerned with enterprise and empowerment; and to general readers drawn to the story of what one family built, what it meant, and what it teaches.

The Africa Café Case and the Sustainable Entrepreneurship Framework for Africa (SEFA)

Sustainable Entrepreneurship in Africa and the Diaspora

History, Heritage, and Communities

Field Hockey Narratives

Foundations of Fashion Studies

By the 1940s the New York fashion industry had come into its own. Sportswear, which had evolved from its origins to include simple casual wear for travel, leisure, town and country, was at the centre of this shift. Drawing on an array of sources, this book examines how New York sportswear evolved during the 1930s and 1940s to become the definitive American style. It reveals how designers such as Claire McCardell, Clare Potter and Tina Leser created a fashion identity for New York that was as dynamic and modern as the city itself. Author Rebecca Arnold interrogates the American ideal of athletic, long-limbed women and looks for the first time at how sportswear impacted and was impacted by ideas of patriotism and democracy, as well as its links to notions of cleanliness and hygiene, and to 1930s theories of body image and contemporary dance. As part of the Foundations of Fashion Studies series, this classic text now includes a new foreword by Emma McClendon and a new afterword and further reading list by the author.

Fashion, Sportswear and the Image of Women in 1930s and 1940s New York

The American Look

The Memoir of Concha Lombardo de Miramón, 1835–1869

A Feisty Woman

Examines the discordance among the public over controversial historic monumentsand how it should be addressed, highlighting how iconoclasm is confronted through global heritage management theory.

Throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the United States and Canada rarely experienced iconoclasm, the premeditated destruction of visual symbols, because of their specific emotional or ideological content in the public square. This is changing. As North Americans continue to reject the tangible and intangible heritage of institutionalized white supremacy, iconoclasm acts are happening with greater frequency. The death of George Floyd in May 2020 hastened the demand by Americans to remove historic monuments; so much so, that protesters took matters into their own hands and pulled down statues of historical figures, not limited to the American Civil War but also associated with European colonialism before the American Revolution and during the reign of Queen Victoria in Canada.&nbsp;

For historic preservationists and conservationists, iconoclasm is now the most consequential issue in the field and will continue to be a matter of contention for the foreseeable future. Motives for enacting iconoclasm can be justified, but what are the consequences for doing so, and how, in turn, will this determine the future of our public spaces in towns and cities? More fundamentally, is the current period of iconoclasm leading us to reconsider the public square as part of the built environment? This book will be the first theory-informed work to examine the discordance among the public over controversial historic monuments in the historic landscape and how it should be addressed. It challenges architects, landscape architects, conservationists, preservationists, elected officials, and the public to reconsider the public square and whether or not civic art that memorializes is still relevant or a practice that can be reimagined. It also considers the after-effects of iconoclasm acts: How should we redesign public civic spaces after we have either destroyed or removed historic monuments? As societal values change in regard to public memorialization, how will heritage practitioners, conservationist technicians, and urban designers grapple with working in the civic realm, which may be considered antiquated but continues to exist in our cities?

The book examines how iconoclasm is confronted through global heritage management theory. During the second half of the twentieth century, UNESCO and the European Union drafted charters to protect historic monuments from acts of war and degradation. The author considers these sets of principles and other international approaches to contested and conflicted heritage in addressing racism-based heritage that is embedded in North American heritage, from theoretical, architectural, and legal perspectives. France, which first experienced iconoclasm during the Revolution, has grappled with iconoclasm throughout its modern history. Revolutionary leader Henri Grégoire even invented a noun for it: "vandalism." Through the creation of an environment removed from a historic object's context-the public museum, the Louvre-France conceived institutional iconoclasm. From the revolutions and cultural upheavals of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries to the calamities of two world wars in the twentieth century, Europeans have developed policy and a legal framework that address iconoclasm. The book intends to examine this legal framework closely. It will inform the direction that the North American heritage field should take in order to accept that heritage changes, and must change, in response to our own needs to acknowledge multiple histories and identities in a diverse society, while simultaneously recognizing that iconoclasm is a part of how a society resolves its emotional responses to its built heritage.

Iconoclasm in the Public Square

How has fashion become such an important signifier of French nationhood? How has fashion journalism been used to mediate political ideologies like fascism? These questions and more are answered in the first book to comprehensively explore the interactions between fashion, the media, soft power, and nationhood. With a geographically diverse range of case studies and a unique focus on fashion journalism, Fashion and Power covers the origins of the relationship between fashion, cultural power, and national identity in 'courtly' societies, through the Cold War to the identities of emerging fashion nations such as China and Nigeria. Examining figures from 'La Jeune Fille Américaine' to First Ladies, Nelson Best argues how, in Susan Kaiser's words, 'representations of nation are built on the backs of women's bodies.' By exploring fashion journalism as a discourse of cultural power that shapes the identity of nations in different times and places, Fashion and Power reveals the contingency of these power relations and the possibility of their renegotiation. This accessible and highly engaging book is an invaluable resource not only for fashion studies students but also for those in media and cultural studies and anyone interested in fashion, identity, and power.

Industry, Journalism, and Nation

Fashion and Power

Entrepreneurs like Booker T. Washington and Madam C.J. Walker are familiar figures in the history of Black business. But from the hopeful dawn of emancipation to the crucible of Jim Crow, from rural Mound Bayou, Mississippi, to the bustling blocks of Harlem, many others built extraordinary businesses in pursuit of prosperity and freedom. Nevertheless, their efforts to pursue the American Dream were steadily undermined by people intent on profiting on their innovations and reining in their opportunities. Award-winning historian Shennette Garrett-Scott reveals the everyday genius of the people who refused to accept exclusion as identity: former slaves turned cotton mill owners, washerwomen turned financiers, and self-taught visionaries who built banks, real estate empires, and grocery store chains. Their successes were real, but ventures that promised economic independence often provoked backlash as white elites, politicians, and vigilantes tried to contain Black success. Even the boldest dreams often buckled under the combined weight of limited resources and state obstruction.A daring tale, lyrically told, The Business of Freedom reveals the history, strengths, and weaknesses of Black capitalism as a strategy for both individual and collective empowerment and shows why free enterprise alone could never deliver the freedom its champions promised.

The Golden Age of Black Capitalism

The Business of Freedom

Christine Lagarde is a woman of firsts: first female head of the IMF, first female President of the ECB - and all without a classic career path through the world of finance. In her first autobiography, she recounts her rise, her successes and setbacks, and her fight against prejudice. It sheds light on the great crises of the global economy, her courageous decisions, and her distinctive perspective on power, emancipation, and change. Complemented by the voices of her most important companions, the result is a multifaceted portrait of a woman who breaks boundaries and consistently challenges the status quo.

Lady First

The Psychology of Everything

The Psychology of Culture Shock

Accomplished women of color provide powerful insight into transformative leadership strategies and network building. This powerful essay collection shares the voices of thirteen women of color in academic leadership in STEM fields, who explore the history of transformative collaboration and reflect on their leadership strategies. The contributors--specializing in a multitude of engineering disciplines including aerospace, biomedical, civil, computer, industrial, and mechanical--leverage their individual strengths, such as bilingualism, resilience, resistance, and family knowledge, in order to develop collaborative networks to support and mentor upcoming faculty, researchers, administrators, and industry leaders. In an era of hostility toward diversity, equity, and inclusion initiatives, the lessons from these trailblazers are vital for academic leaders, especially in engineering, but also in any field whose leaders desire to learn about research methods and multidisciplinary education. Through narratives drawing from their personal and professional experiences, these scholars provide practical insight into growing leadership skills, fighting patriarchal and discriminatory constraints, and transforming the fields of engineering and computer science for the next generation of scholars.

Women of Color and Collaborative Leadership

Sisters Transforming Stem

Chapultepec Girls weaves together threads of cultural, intellectual, and social history to examine how girls articulated a unique and previously unacknowledged vision of Mexican American culture and politics distinct from--and in some cases directly oppositional to--the political cultures of adult male-led Mexican organizations. Through a vivid microhistory of Club Feminino Chapultepec, a Houston-based organization, this book identifies Mexican American girls' radical politics in manifestos, speeches, and organized labor actions, as well as in the choreography of folk-dance expositions, the planning of enchilada dinner fundraisers and birthday party entertainment, and the contours of everyday working-class life. Chapultepec Girls reinterprets pochitas not as culturally delinquent or even passive victims but as a social and political vanguard, embedded within a sprawling, transnational web of activists, scholars, and political organizations that stretched from New York City to Mexico City and beyond.

Mexican Americans and Radical Politics in the Great Depression

Chapultepec Girls

The Will to Adorn

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