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Donzé P: Capitalism’s Favorite Child

Capitalism’s Favorite Child

Global Fashion Business since 1850

List of figures List of tables List of boxes Acknowledgements Introduction 1. The emergence of the modern fashion business The global expansion of the commodity trade-wool, cotton, and silk Technological innovation-textile machinery, sewing machines, and artificial colors Standardization of sizes New consumption temples-department stores Conclusion 2. The rise of haute couture or high-end fashion The inventor of a new business: Charles Frederick Worth The heyday of French haute couture (1880-1939) Haute couture as a transnational industry Trade associations in haute couture Conclusion 3. Fashion for the masses Change in consumption habits Clothing industry around the world Networks and large factories Producing fabrics for the European colonies The internalization model in apparel retail: C&amp;A The outsourcing model: M&amp;S Conclusion 4. West meets East and the Rest How British cotton conquered the world and deindustrialized India Japan's Meiji Restoration, selective Westernization, and uniforms Forced opening of China, the Opium Wars, and the Westernization of Chinese culture Chinese and Japanese influences on Western fashion Wax fabrics connected Asia, Europe, and Africa Conclusion 5. American fashion Fur, cotton, and slavery Industrialization and textiles Ready-to-wear The rise of New York fashion The rise of denim Leisure and sportswear Conclusion 6. Fashion, fascism, and the Second World War Italian fascism, fashion, and fibers Nazi autarky, Aryanization, and artificial fibers Japan's fashion during the military dictatorship Paris fashion during the German occupation British-controlled fashion American independence from Paris Conclusion 7. Postwar fashion systems A new business model for Parisian haute couture US fashion industry-mass production, creativity and imitation The emergence of Italian fashion Western fashion and garments in Japan Growth of global apparel industry Conclusion 8. Global fashion: Outsourcing and the end of the production paradigm Global shifts in the textile and apparel industries The rise of global fashion companies Mediatization of fashion The Japanese way Fashion in developing economies Conclusion 9. Fashion conglomerates and fast fashion The rise of LVMH Financialization of luxury fashion brands Fast fashion-retail and production (Un)sustainability and fashion Conclusion 10. Sports to fashion Sportswear and casual style in the United States A German sports-shoemaker conquers Germany-and then the world Game changers-the rise of Nike and Reebok Near-death experience and revival of adidas Marketing of sportswear Fashionalization of adidas Conclusion 11. Digital fashion and global production networks Globalization and global production networks Fashion forecasting: WGSN (London) and Stylesight (New York) E-commerce, fast fashion, and the destruction of traditional retail Mediatization, bloggers, and influencers The Fourth Industrial Revolution in fashion Conclusion Conclusion References Index

Practical Constructions for Designers and Makers

Folded Paper Geometry

The al-Sabah Collection

"Dar al-Athar al Islamiyyah - The al-Sabah Collection, Kuwait."--Title page.

Metalwork from the Arab World and the Mediterranean

This entirely new collection of essays picks up from the 2005 Latin American Fashion Reader to explore ideas of rupture and repair in the past and present of Latin American fashion.

The New Latin American Fashion Reader

Published to coincide with an exhibition of the same name, Black Gold showcases recent and newly commissioned artworks reflecting on the resilience, struggles, and triumphs of African Americans who lived in California during its early statehood, from the Gold Rush in 1848 to the Reconstruction era.The project highlights figures and events often omitted from California's history, including the presence of slavery and the struggle for legal rights within this "free" state, the successes of Black entrepreneurs, and the experiences of the African American army regiments known as the Buffalo Soldiers.Black Gold brings together an essay by the exhibitions curator, Cheryl Haines; an artist roundtable discussion moderated by Key Jo Lee, chief of curatorial affairs and public programs, Museum of the African Diaspora, San Francisco, CA; new and archival materials addressing California's hidden history of slavery and anti-Black legislation; and texts detailing the contributions of each of the exhibitions artists—including&nbsp;Akea Brionne, Demetri Broxton, Adrian L. Burrell, the artists of Creativity Explored, Adam Davis, Cheryl Derricotte, Carla Edwards, Mildred Howard, Sir Isaac Julien CBE, Tiff Massey, Umar Rashid, Trina Michelle Robinson, Alison Saar, Yinka Shonibare CBE, Bryan Keith Thomas, Cosmo Whyte, and Hank Willis Thomas.Led by the FOR-SITE Foundation, Black Gold will be on view at San Francisco's historic Fort Point from June 4-November 1, 2025.

Black Gold

A comprehensive presentation of the Yale University Art Gallery's collection of Italian paintings from the thirteenth to the fifteenth century &nbsp; The collection of Italian paintings at the Yale University Art Gallery is one of the largest and richest in the world. The first of four volumes on the collection, this sumptuously illustrated book features over seventy-five works dating from 1230 to 1420 by artists such as Taddeo Gaddi, Andrea di Cione (better known as Orcagna), Lippo Memmi, Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti, and Lorenzo Monaco. In addition to discussions of each painting's meaning, function, and significance, entries provide published references, provenance, full technical notes, and detailed conservation histories. An introduction by Laurence Kanter chronicles the history of the collection, from the James Jackson Jarves Collection that was assembled in the nineteenth century-the earliest formed collection of Italian paintings in any American museum-to more recent gifts by Louis and Hannah Rabinowitz and Richard Feigen. While many of the works are from Florence and Siena, the volume also includes examples from Bologna, Rimini, Venice, and more. Through its wide-ranging holdings, the Gallery's collection provides a remarkable sense of the diverse visual culture of the time. &nbsp; Distributed for the Yale University Art Gallery

Volume 1: 1230-1420

Italian Paintings at the Yale University Art Gallery

A collaboration between Jess T. Dugan (photographer of To Survive On This Shore) and curator Charlotte Cotton, Love Pictures centers around conversations about themes informing Dugan’s practice, including gender and identity, family and politics, writing and language, relationships and community, the book as object, and the dynamics of the exhibition space. These initial dialogues then prompted subsequent conversations with others in Dugan’s and Cotton’s respective communities: friends, colleagues, mentors, and subjects of Dugan’s work—including Dawoud Bey, Kelli Connell, Dorothy Moss, and Catherine Opie, among others. Transcriptions of these intimate and in-depth exchanges are woven with the first comprehensive survey of Dugan’s work in book form. Dugan's work is in the permanent collections of over sixty museums, including the Denver Art Museum, Getty Research Institute, Harvard Art Museums, International Center of Photography, Leslie/Lohman Museum of Gay and Lesbian Art, Minneapolis Institute of Art, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, Museum of Fine Arts Houston, Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art, and San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.

Jess T. Dugan and Charlotte Cotton: Love Pictures

Cultural Histories of Theatre and Performance

Culture and Experiment in the Irish Free State

Performing Modernity

'Exceptionally rich, inspiring, challenging' Bernardine Evaristo | 'Something on every page that you didn't know before' Sathnam Sanghera | 'Celebrates women how they are, as they are' | Gillian AndersonOur bodies tell our story. This powerful global history of beauty by Sunday Times bestselling Brit(tish) author Afua Hirsch dismantles the colonial falsehoods that shape our sense of belonging and celebrates the pioneering stories and ideas of women from marginalised groups. 'A remarkable journey to unlearn western beauty standards and explore ancestral skin, hair and body modification rituals' Funmi Fetto, Observer'A vital, challenging account of reassessing body image beyond the colonial, patriarchal gaze' I newspaper'A generous offering, and a joy filled testimony' Nana Darkoa Sekyiamah, author of The Sex Lives of African Women

On Ancestry, Tradition and Cultural Reinvention

Decolonising My Body

A Fashion Revolutionary

Vivienne Westwood

Dress and Fashion Research

Sustainable Fashion, Migrants, Embroidery: Ateliers of 'Social Integration' tells of community-led 'solidarity ateliers' engaged in sewing and embroidery activities which, in the Global North and Global South, are providing a vital alternative to neoliberal and neo-colonial fashion paradigms. On encountering several ateliers solidaires/sartorie sociali during her immersive fieldwork, for which she travelled to Morocco and Southern Italy, and contrasting her findings with her knowledge of parallel and analogous initiatives in London, Alessandra Lopez y Royo suggests that despite their different outlook and approach these ateliers can be inscribed within an ever-growing economy of solidarity and sharing. With a uniquely combined focus on sustainability, fashion and migration, Lopez y Royo examines how the ateliers foreground a powerful social inclusion agenda, encouraging migrants (and refugees) to collaborate, exchange knowledge, and foster communities on a level playing field with locals. Questioning widely accepted notions of 'empowerment' and 'social integration', and drawing on her background in archaeology and material culture studies, Lopez y Royo uses micro-studies to illuminate a broader path to a more inclusive, sustainable, and socially conscious industry, presenting a fresh perspective on repurposing and upcycling. In a world grappling with the need to shift away from fast fashion's wasteful practices, this thought-provoking exploration shows how slow-growth 'solidarity ateliers' can challenge the widely accepted notions of both 'fashion' and 'social integration'.

Ateliers of 'Social Integration'

Sustainable Fashion, Migrants, Embroidery

The first major biography on artist Louise Bourgeois brings the life and work of an iconic twentieth-century artist into sharp focus &nbsp; Louise Bourgeois (1911–2010) was one of the most important artists of the twentieth century. She is known for a body of work that spans sculpture, painting, and printmaking but eludes any aesthetic classification. Her life and art were so intertwined that it is often difficult to tell them apart. In her own words: “Sculpture is the body. My body is the sculpture.” &nbsp; Marie-Laure Bernadac’s biography of Bourgeois traces the career of a great artist, her training, and her influences, as it tells the story of an exceptional woman’s life. Featuring personal photographs as well as reproductions of her work, this landmark publication is the first major biography to draw on the artist’s unpublished personal archives, including diaries, correspondence, and psychoanalytic writings, as well as the many interviews she gave and the reminiscences of those who knew her. Bernadac elucidates Bourgeois’s friendships and rivalries with other major figures, including sculptor Louise Nevelson and Museum of Modern Art director Alfred H. Barr Jr. She also draws on Bourgeois’s well-known fascination with psychoanalysis to explore the deeply autobiographical nature of her artwork. This erudite and keenly insightful biography pays tribute to the talent of the artist and the complexity of the person.

The Life of Louise Bourgeois

Knife-Woman

Marvel Anatomy: A Scientific Study of the Superhuman

Capitalism’s Favorite Child

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