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Donzé P: Capitalism’s Favorite Child

Capitalism’s Favorite Child

Global Fashion Business since 1850

List of figures List of tables List of boxes Acknowledgements Introduction 1. The emergence of the modern fashion business The global expansion of the commodity trade-wool, cotton, and silk Technological innovation-textile machinery, sewing machines, and artificial colors Standardization of sizes New consumption temples-department stores Conclusion 2. The rise of haute couture or high-end fashion The inventor of a new business: Charles Frederick Worth The heyday of French haute couture (1880-1939) Haute couture as a transnational industry Trade associations in haute couture Conclusion 3. Fashion for the masses Change in consumption habits Clothing industry around the world Networks and large factories Producing fabrics for the European colonies The internalization model in apparel retail: C&amp;A The outsourcing model: M&amp;S Conclusion 4. West meets East and the Rest How British cotton conquered the world and deindustrialized India Japan's Meiji Restoration, selective Westernization, and uniforms Forced opening of China, the Opium Wars, and the Westernization of Chinese culture Chinese and Japanese influences on Western fashion Wax fabrics connected Asia, Europe, and Africa Conclusion 5. American fashion Fur, cotton, and slavery Industrialization and textiles Ready-to-wear The rise of New York fashion The rise of denim Leisure and sportswear Conclusion 6. Fashion, fascism, and the Second World War Italian fascism, fashion, and fibers Nazi autarky, Aryanization, and artificial fibers Japan's fashion during the military dictatorship Paris fashion during the German occupation British-controlled fashion American independence from Paris Conclusion 7. Postwar fashion systems A new business model for Parisian haute couture US fashion industry-mass production, creativity and imitation The emergence of Italian fashion Western fashion and garments in Japan Growth of global apparel industry Conclusion 8. Global fashion: Outsourcing and the end of the production paradigm Global shifts in the textile and apparel industries The rise of global fashion companies Mediatization of fashion The Japanese way Fashion in developing economies Conclusion 9. Fashion conglomerates and fast fashion The rise of LVMH Financialization of luxury fashion brands Fast fashion-retail and production (Un)sustainability and fashion Conclusion 10. Sports to fashion Sportswear and casual style in the United States A German sports-shoemaker conquers Germany-and then the world Game changers-the rise of Nike and Reebok Near-death experience and revival of adidas Marketing of sportswear Fashionalization of adidas Conclusion 11. Digital fashion and global production networks Globalization and global production networks Fashion forecasting: WGSN (London) and Stylesight (New York) E-commerce, fast fashion, and the destruction of traditional retail Mediatization, bloggers, and influencers The Fourth Industrial Revolution in fashion Conclusion Conclusion References Index

From Carrie Bradshaw to Grace Jones, and from Nicki Minaj to Blair Waldorf, New York is the fashion 'it girl' capital of the world. New York Fashion Icons is your ultimate guide to all of the key artists, musicians, writers, actors, influencers and characters who define New York style, from high end catwalks to everyday street style. Through deep-dives into their signature pieces, favourite designers, influences and impact on fashion, discover over 50 of the most fashionable New Yorkers. Written and curated by bestselling author and native New Yorker Kristen Bateman, and featuring over 100 images, this is a beautiful book of forever style inspiration.

Style legends of the iconic city

New York Fashion Icons

This book is about something special that we all desire - love. And it is also a book about what keeps us apart - the desire to be seen but being unwilling to do what needs to be done to see. This book will change your life. It wull give you all the wings you need to fly again.

335876 TBA

Creative Careers

Whether your skills are in design, making, styling, illustration, textile arts or supervision - Get Into Costume helps you bridge the gap from costume education into that vital first job in the industry. You'll learn from the highs and lows of some of the most influential costume professionals working today, including Sandy Powell OBE (Shakespeare in Love, Mary Poppins Returns and The Favourite), Jenny Beavan OBE (Mad Max: Fury Road, Cruella and Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga), Zaldy Goco (RuPaul's Drag Race, Cirque du Soleil and The Little Mermaid), as well as Dance Costume Maker Amanda Barrow. There's also hands-on advice about collaborating with directors and producers to help bring their vision to life as well as how to break down a script and storyline to establish not just what a character should wear but how and why they wear it. With the collective insight of costume designer Vin Burnham and her fellow international costume professionals, you'll be armed and ready to enter the industry with a full understanding of the different career paths available to you - and what it takes to succeed.

Design, Make and Manage for the Stage and Screen

Get Into Costume

Routledge Advances in Art and Visual Studies

This volume explores the effect of Darwinian theory on visual culture through analysis of popular graphics, scientific illustration, natural history diorama, as well as the more traditional art historical material such as painting and sculpture. It extends the discussion to examine the lasting impact the theory of evolution has had on the development of art history as an academic discipline.

The Darwin Effect

Evolutionary Theory and Visual Culture

Perspectives in Economic and Social History

Prostitution in Los Angeles has a long history. The story of its evolution from a red-light district run by women to a corporate vice industry dominated by men tells us much about the development of urban America. Kooistra examines race and gender dynamics alongside issues of government and police corruption, commerce and larger changes in society.

Gender and the Business of Prostitution in Los Angeles, 1850–1940

Based on thousands of never-before translated letters and unpublished sources, Jackie Wullschläger's enthralling biography is the first account of Monet's turbulent private life and how it determined his expressive, sensuous, sensational painting. Deeply moving, it immerses us in that passionate experience, transforming our understanding of the man, his art and the fullness of his achievement.

The Restless Vision

Monet

A reprint of the sold-out 2007 first edition with a new introduction, Mapping Water embraces uncharted artistic terrains.&nbsp;Tuwaletstiwa writes, “In this vast desert, a thin membrane separates the daily world and the world of spirit. This elemental landscape holds a deep reservoir of the unconscious, continually reminding me of the fragility and tenacity of life. Whether writing, painting, working with fiber, sand, or glass, I seek to embody the elusive images that emanate from the unconscious.”The first section in Mapping Water explores the etymology of the word “genesis” alongside paintings that relate (and don’t relate) to parts of the text, evoking thoughts on the “genesis” of ideas. Subsequent sections continue this exploration with content that varies from the deconstruction of an iconic Holocaust photograph to the construction of a series using feathers and bones to honor the spirit of a dead crow.

Judy Tuwaletstiwa: Mapping Water (Reprint)

Described as 'exhilarating' by Katy Hessel, a compelling and lively history that examines the lives of British artists from the late-19th century to today. In This is Tomorrow Michael Bird takes a fresh look at the 'long twentieth century', from the closing years of Queen Victoria's reign to the turn of the millennium, through the lens of the artists who lived and worked in this ever-changing Britain. Bird examines how the rhythms of change and adaptation in art became embedded in the collective consciousness of the nation and vividly evokes the personalities who populate and drive this story, looking beyond individual careers and historical moments to weave together interconnecting currents of change that flowed through London, Glasgow, Leeds, Cornwall, the Caribbean, New York, Moscow and Berlin. From the American James McNeill Whistler's defence of his new kind of modern art against the British art establishment in the latter half of the 19th century to the Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson's melting icebergs in London, he traverses the lives of the artists that have recorded, questioned and defined our times. At the heart of this original book are the successive waves of displacement caused by global wars and persecution that conversely brought fresh ideas and new points of view to the British Isles; educational reforms opened new routes for young people from working-class backgrounds; movements of social change enabled the emergence of female artists and artists of colour; and the emergence of the mass media shaped modern modes of communication and culture. These are the ebbs and flows that Michael Bird teases out in this panoramic account of Britain and its artists in across the twentieth century.

This is Tomorrow

In the twelfth-century, Pisa was a powerhouse of global trade, a city that stood at the centre of Medieval Europe. But Pisa had a problem. It was running out of coins. In the face of a looming financial crisis, the city's rulers and its moneylenders forged a deal that laid the foundations of the modern state and of present-day banking. In Money and Promises, the distinguished banker and scholar Paolo Zannoni examines the extraordinary relationship between states and banks. He draws upon seven case studies: the republic of twelfth-century Pisa, seventeenth-century Venice, the early years of the Bank of England, Imperial Spain, the Kingdom of Naples, the nascent USA during the American Revolution, and Bolshevik Russia in 1917-21. Spanning a multitude of countries, political systems and historical eras, Zannoni shows that at the heart of our institutions lies an intricate exchange of debt and promises that has shaped the modern world. Featuring pioneering research and original insights, this authoritative yet accessible book explores the vital relationship upon which our financial and political systems still depend.

Seven Deals that Changed the World

Money and Promises

Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel's iconic Creative Director for thirty-five years, was a cultural luminary like no other. Larger than life, Lagerfeld was legendary not only for reinventing Chanel but also for his idiosyncratic personal style and captivating life, which featured a cast of the world's most famous, fabulous and fascinating people. Not least his cat, Choupette, who herself became a fashion icon. Journalist and author William Middleton spent years working in Paris for Women's Wear Daily, W, and Harper's Bazaar. During his time there, he interviewed and socialized with Lagerfeld, coming to to see a side the elusive designer kept private from the world. In this deliciously entertaining book, Middleton takes us inside the most exclusive rooms in the fashion industry, behind the catwalk, and into a world of brilliantly talented artists, stylish socialites, and famous stars-some of the most elusive and unforgettable figures of fashion's inner circle for the past four decades.

The Extraordinary Life of Karl Lagerfeld

Paradise Now

What can one city tell us about the global textile waste problem? This Open Access study is the first detailed ethnography of clothing waste infrastructures that starts where the problem starts - the Global North. Based on more than 100 interviews, cultural anthropologist Heike Derwanz follows the journey of fast fashion in Hamburg, Germany: starting with two women from different socio-economic backgrounds sorting through their wardrobes, travelling through local flea markets, eBay, church clothes banks, upcycling brands and recycling sites, only to end up in homes and waste heaps in the Global South. Bringing together human agents such as designers, social workers and vintage sellers with objects from containers, plastic sacks and internet platforms to piles of sorted textiles, this on-the-ground cultural study reveals how the global economic system of fast fashion shapes local infrastructures entangled in everyday lives. Combining material culture, waste studies and economic perspectives to scrutinize the so-called circular economy of today's global textile recycling market, Derwanz investigates what agency modern consumers really have in the lifecycle of their clothes. The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Bloomsbury Open Collections Library Collective.

The Circulation of Used Clothes in the Global North

Sorting Out Clothes

The world's leading Marxist geographer and economist takes us by the hand to guide us through Marx's masterwork

What Everyone Should Know About How Capital Works

The Story of Capital

Capitalism’s Favorite Child

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