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Johnson G: Dior in 50 Objects

Dior in 50 Objects

The iconic fashion house through its finest creations

Ruth Finley's Fashion Calendar

In American Fashion

Fashion Auteurs

Explores how Ray Petri and the Buffalo collective revolutionized fashion photography in the 1980s by blending subcultural style, radical diversity, and gender politics to create a new cultural template still influential today

Scottish-born, visionary stylist Ray Petri (1948-1989) defined the look and feel of radical 1980s magazines such as The Face, i-D, and Arena. Founder of the maverick Buffalo collective, Petri styled kilts with MA-1 flight jackets and Armani suits with Dr. Martens boots to create genre-defying looks that shook up London's subcultural scene from grassroots to high fashion. Harnessing the power of street style, sportswear, club culture, new wave, and dandyism, Petri's vision took the sartorial vocabulary of the perpetually displaced into the mainstream. His radical casting of Black and multiracial models, styling of men in skirts, and women cast as men was a retort to the prevailing aesthetic in contemporary fashion. Moreover, it marked a culturally reflexive, implicitly political approach to the relationship between fashion and identity. Challenging the policing of masculinity and sexuality in particular, Petri's imagery boldly toyed with the iconography of homoeroticism, employing the language of fashion in the activism for gay liberation against the backdrop of the AIDS crisis. The eclectic Buffalo circle included fellow stylist Mitzi Lorenz; photographers Jamie Morgan, Mark Lebon and Jean-Baptiste Mondino; model-muses Nick and Barry Kamen and a young Naomi Campbell; and musicians such as Neneh Cherry. Shaped by Petri, the Buffalo attitude is intrinsic to style culture today having since inspired legions of photographers, stylists, and designers from Kim Jones to Ibrahim Kamara, Martine Rose, and Grace Wales Bonner. The spirit of Buffalo lives on in the countercultural references, cultural diversity, and post-gender conversation that underlies the most powerful of contemporary fashion imagery. This book traces how Ray Petri and Buffalo created the template for modern fashion photography by advocating not simply for a new aesthetic but for a new cultural order.

Ray Petri

Practical Constructions for Designers and Makers

Folded Paper Geometry

Louis-René Boquet Between Tradition and Reform

Performance Costume in 18th-Century France

Discover the true meanings behind over 200 popular tattoos with this comprehensive book, illustrated with over 100 tattoo designs. From sailors' swallows and Mexican skulls to prisoners' barbed wire and intricate Maori patterns, tattoos have been used as a means of communication by cultures all over the world for thousands of years. Through meticulous research, The Tattoo Dictionary uncovers the fascinating origins of the most popular symbols in tattoo history, revealing their hidden meanings and the long-forgotten stories behind them. This beautifully packaged book is an inspiring look at tattoo culture, and an indispensable guide to choosing your own tattoo.

An A-Z guide to the secret language of tattoos

The Tattoo Dictionary

What can one city tell us about the global textile waste problem? This Open Access study is the first detailed ethnography of clothing waste infrastructures that starts where the problem starts - the Global North. Based on more than 100 interviews, cultural anthropologist Heike Derwanz follows the journey of fast fashion in Hamburg, Germany: starting with two women from different socio-economic backgrounds sorting through their wardrobes, travelling through local flea markets, eBay, church clothes banks, upcycling brands and recycling sites, only to end up in homes and waste heaps in the Global South. Bringing together human agents such as designers, social workers and vintage sellers with objects from containers, plastic sacks and internet platforms to piles of sorted textiles, this on-the-ground cultural study reveals how the global economic system of fast fashion shapes local infrastructures entangled in everyday lives. Combining material culture, waste studies and economic perspectives to scrutinize the so-called circular economy of today's global textile recycling market, Derwanz investigates what agency modern consumers really have in the lifecycle of their clothes. The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Bloomsbury Open Collections Library Collective.

The Circulation of Used Clothes in the Global North

Sorting Out Clothes

Learn to create lasting impact for global fashion brands through branding, marketing and consumer engagement.

Strategic Management and Promotion for Global Fashion Brands

International Fashion Marketing

A beautifully illustrated practical guide to creating historically accurate 19th-century garments, gowns, and silhouettes for modern body shapes.

A Step-by-Step Guide

19th-Century Patterns for the Modern Body

Fashion in Action

What is cultural appropriation in fashion and how can understanding its causes, consequences and reoccurrences help us to challenge it in the future? As part of the Fashion in Action series of short books aimed at rallying readers on global issues in fashion, Benjamin Linley Wild highlights the long and complicated history of appropriation, guiding us on the pressing question of where we go next. Chapter one considers where we have been - what are the words we have used and what theories continue to frame and potentially hinder discussions about appropriation within the fashion industry? Chapter two moves on to where we are now - what does appropriation look like in the fashion industry and how can understanding this help both educators and consumers overcome the circularity of the current debates? Chapter three draws together the theories and their potential implications to unravel the riddle of appropriation and enable us to look to the future with suggested calls for action. This timely book equips readers with the tools to navigate and reshape the conversation around cultural appropriation, encouraging meaningful action for a more conscious and inclusive fashion industry.

Dior in 50 Objects

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