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Davies A: Textile Product Performance

Textile Product Performance

A Practical Guide for Designers and Buyers

From Carrie Bradshaw to Grace Jones, and from Nicki Minaj to Blair Waldorf, New York is the fashion 'it girl' capital of the world. New York Fashion Icons is your ultimate guide to all of the key artists, musicians, writers, actors, influencers and characters who define New York style, from high end catwalks to everyday street style. Through deep-dives into their signature pieces, favourite designers, influences and impact on fashion, discover over 50 of the most fashionable New Yorkers. Written and curated by bestselling author and native New Yorker Kristen Bateman, and featuring over 100 images, this is a beautiful book of forever style inspiration.

Style legends of the iconic city

New York Fashion Icons

What can one city tell us about the global textile waste problem? This Open Access study is the first detailed ethnography of clothing waste infrastructures that starts where the problem starts - the Global North. Based on more than 100 interviews, cultural anthropologist Heike Derwanz follows the journey of fast fashion in Hamburg, Germany: starting with two women from different socio-economic backgrounds sorting through their wardrobes, travelling through local flea markets, eBay, church clothes banks, upcycling brands and recycling sites, only to end up in homes and waste heaps in the Global South. Bringing together human agents such as designers, social workers and vintage sellers with objects from containers, plastic sacks and internet platforms to piles of sorted textiles, this on-the-ground cultural study reveals how the global economic system of fast fashion shapes local infrastructures entangled in everyday lives. Combining material culture, waste studies and economic perspectives to scrutinize the so-called circular economy of today's global textile recycling market, Derwanz investigates what agency modern consumers really have in the lifecycle of their clothes. The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Bloomsbury Open Collections Library Collective.

The Circulation of Used Clothes in the Global North

Sorting Out Clothes

Plastic is omnipresent in our daily lives. But the companies that make it-petrochemical companies which are often subsidiaries of Big Oil like ExxonMobil and Dow Chemical-seem to be hiding in plain sight. Because for all the vivid coverage of where plastic ends up, there is remarkably little discussion of where it comes from. Through a mix of investigative deep dive and vivid character-driven storytelling, Plastic Inc for the first time tells the story of a vast, rapacious industry that, despite public opinion universally calling for less waste and fossil fuel emissions, is preparing to double and eventually triple plastic production by 2050. Award-winning journalist Beth Gardiner gives readers an up-close look at the plastic industry's relentless growth, its manipulation of culture and governments, its extraordinary profits, its toxic pollution and its pivotal role in exacerbating climate change. That for decades Big Oil's masterplan has been to grow plastics in the face of diminishing demand for fossil fuels in a post oil and gas world. Every chapter in Plastic Inc brings new revelations, including: How Big Oil invented the idea of recycling in order to produce more plastic, aware that recycling at scale would never work.How Big Oil created and funded litter campaigns in the 1970s to push responsibility onto the consumer, and away from the producersHow microplastics are becoming a huge public health crisisHow Big oil colludes with US lobby groups and ploughs huge resource into preventing even the smallest town-wide ban on plastic bags or take away containers. The stories in Plastic Inc will reframe for readers a problem many of us think we understand, but which has deeper roots and a more complex future than we can have possibly imagined.

The Scandal of How Big Oil Used Plastic to Escape Its Fate

Plastic Inc

A History of Fashion in 21 Cats

Little Books of Fashion

The Story of the Iconic Fashion Designer

Little Book of Gucci by Tom Ford

A contemporary textile artist provides a new, unexpected and expansive anthropological perspective on the practices, meanings and heritage of a globally important textile technique.

A contemporary textile artist provides a new, unexpected and expansive anthropological perspective on the practices, meanings and heritage of a globally important textile technique.

Performance, Metaphor and Materiality in Contemporary Cloth

Indigo and Resist Dyeing

Dress and Fashion Research

Sustainable Fashion, Migrants, Embroidery: Ateliers of 'Social Integration' tells of community-led 'solidarity ateliers' engaged in sewing and embroidery activities which, in the Global North and Global South, are providing a vital alternative to neoliberal and neo-colonial fashion paradigms. On encountering several ateliers solidaires/sartorie sociali during her immersive fieldwork, for which she travelled to Morocco and Southern Italy, and contrasting her findings with her knowledge of parallel and analogous initiatives in London, Alessandra Lopez y Royo suggests that despite their different outlook and approach these ateliers can be inscribed within an ever-growing economy of solidarity and sharing. With a uniquely combined focus on sustainability, fashion and migration, Lopez y Royo examines how the ateliers foreground a powerful social inclusion agenda, encouraging migrants (and refugees) to collaborate, exchange knowledge, and foster communities on a level playing field with locals. Questioning widely accepted notions of 'empowerment' and 'social integration', and drawing on her background in archaeology and material culture studies, Lopez y Royo uses micro-studies to illuminate a broader path to a more inclusive, sustainable, and socially conscious industry, presenting a fresh perspective on repurposing and upcycling. In a world grappling with the need to shift away from fast fashion's wasteful practices, this thought-provoking exploration shows how slow-growth 'solidarity ateliers' can challenge the widely accepted notions of both 'fashion' and 'social integration'.

Ateliers of 'Social Integration'

Sustainable Fashion, Migrants, Embroidery

Menswear, Bodies and Sexuality

Queering Masculinities in Antwerp Fashion

Creative Careers

Whether your skills are in design, making, styling, illustration, textile arts or supervision - Get Into Costume helps you bridge the gap from costume education into that vital first job in the industry. You'll learn from the highs and lows of some of the most influential costume professionals working today, including Sandy Powell OBE (Shakespeare in Love, Mary Poppins Returns and The Favourite), Jenny Beavan OBE (Mad Max: Fury Road, Cruella and Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga), Zaldy Goco (RuPaul's Drag Race, Cirque du Soleil and The Little Mermaid), as well as Dance Costume Maker Amanda Barrow. There's also hands-on advice about collaborating with directors and producers to help bring their vision to life as well as how to break down a script and storyline to establish not just what a character should wear but how and why they wear it. With the collective insight of costume designer Vin Burnham and her fellow international costume professionals, you'll be armed and ready to enter the industry with a full understanding of the different career paths available to you - and what it takes to succeed.

Design, Make and Manage for the Stage and Screen

Get Into Costume

Tracing the rich tradition of Chinese patchwork art in domestic and rural spaces, from its ancient origins to its contemporary manifestations Patchwork design has a long history in China, dating back almost two thousand years to the arrival of Buddhism in the region. Across millennia, a thread can be followed from spiritual practitioners embracing patchwork textiles as a visual expression of their beliefs to patchwork's use in secular culture, where it was prized for its protective powers. Eventually, patchwork became a form of domestic decoration--and an outlet for artistic ingenuity--that continues in some areas of China's countryside today. Chinese Patchwork explores the creativity of 20th- and 21st-century Chinese makers who stitch fabric remnants into functional, decorative and auspicious articles for use in their homes and by their families. These objects display a wide variety of designs, patterns and techniques, and reflect both local tendencies and the individual aesthetics of the makers. Through a series of scholarly essays, museum curator Nancy Berliner illuminates the tradition and history behind the art form, as well as its links to Chinese visual culture; these texts are illustrated by stunning reproductions of lively and colorful patchwork examples. Interviews with contemporary makers offer readers firsthand insight into the practice and its intricacies. Additional photographs of the artists, their families and their works in situ by American photographer Lois Conner beautifully illustrate patchwork's bold visual presence in rural China.

Ancient Origins, New Expressions

Chinese Patchwork

Textile Product Performance

Bibliografische Angaben

Schlagworte

Bibliografische Angaben

Schlagworte

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