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Dress, Body, Culture

Develops a compelling theoretical framework for understanding the resurgence of gender-fluidity in contemporary fashion, illuminating exciting new critical directions in fashion studies.

Beyer Judith: Antigender Fashion

Antigender Fashion

The Possibilities of Gender-Fluid and Non-Binary Fashion Design

List of Figures Acknowledgements Introduction Methodology Case Study Approach Materials and Data Gathering Internet-Mediated Research Outline 1 Troubling Gender: On the Proliferation of Gender and the Performativity of Fashion Sex, Gender, and Performativity Trans* and the Proliferation of Gender The Performativity of Fashion: Fashion’s System of Signification in Post-Postmodernity 2 Tracing Fluidity: Understanding Moments of Gender-Blurring Fashion Moment I: Bohemians in the Nineteenth Century Moment II: Female Masculinities in the 1920s Moment III: Youth and Countercultures of the 1960s and 1970s Moment IV: Ck One, Unisex, and Millennial Masculinities 3 Antigender Fashion; or, Why Can’t Girls Have Dicks and Boys Have Boobs? Anti-Fashion and Subculture: Anti-Fashion as ‘Confrontational’ Dress Anti-Fashion and Queerness: Anti-Fashion as Oppositional Dress Anti-Fashion and Feminism: Anti-Fashion as Protest Philosophical Perspectives on Anti-Fashion: A Dialectical Approach From Anti-Fashion to Antigender Fashion 4 JW Anderson: The Architecture of Antigender Fashion Millennial Masculinity and JW Anderson’s Beginnings Moment I: (Re-)Building the Architecture of Man and Woman Moment II: Out of Proportion or Fashioning the Grotesque Antigendered Body Moment III: The Camp, the Carnival, the Surreal of Antigender Fashion 5 Alessandro Michele and Gucci: The Bricolage of Antigender Fashion Gender Fluidity Goes Mainstream: The Making and Breaking of Gucci Moment I: Gucci’s New Man – Antigender Fashion and the Floral Suit Moment II: Time Leaps, Détournement, and Memory Moment III: The Bricolage, the Cyborg, and the Post-Human of Antigender 6 Art School: Dressing the Queer and Antigendered Body Designing with and within London’s Queer/Trans* Community Moment I: Performing Fashion, Performing Queerness – Staging Antigender Fashion Moment II: Antigender Bodies In-Between – Dressing Intersectionalities or the Trans*, Ageing, Fat, and Disabled Body Moment III: On Gothic Queer Cultures – the Uncanny Horror in Art School’s Antigender Fashion 7 No Sesso: Styling the Black, Antigendered, and Afrofuturist Body On Disidentification and Designing for an Inclusive Future Moment I: Antigender Streetwear Moment II: Reusing, Recycling, and Remembering Moment III: Antigender and Afrofuturism Conclusion References Index

An open access book, Antigender Fashion is a rich examination of gender fluidity in contemporary fashion design, Judith Beyer develops an emerging new theoretical framework for understanding how fashion can blur and challenge gender boundaries. How is gender fluidity in contemporary fashion different from 20th century androgyny or millennial unisex styles? Like antifashion, which opposes and challenges fashion, Beyer argues that antigender fashion seeks to dismantle and confront binary gender signifiers. After tracing the history of gender-blurring fashion from Marlene Dietrich's androgynous tailoring to Alessandro Michele's floral Gucci suits, case studies of four high-profile fashion brands reveal the diverse approaches to gender-fluidity in contemporary fashion. Investigating each case study through multiple theoretical perspectives - from gender studies to gothic horror, cyborg theory to Afrofuturism - Beyer situates antigender fashion in a rich theoretical landscape and illuminates exciting new critical directions for students and researchers. Can antigender fashion influence the construction of contemporary masculinities and femininities - and can it be a catalyst for change? The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Bloomsbury Open Collections Library Collective.

"This new edition of Fashion under Fascism expands the work of Eugenia Paulicelli's classic text - and includes updated material on gender and masculinity, the role of uniforms in standardizing individuality, race and colonial Italy, and the reception of 1930s cinema. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state, while demonstrating how these developments impacted the global dominance of Italian fashion today. Including interviews with major designers, it is an essential read for all those interested in the history of fashion, politics, national identity and the culture of fascism"--

Beyond the Black Shirt

Fashion under Fascism

The Covid-19 pandemic heightened people's awareness of long-standing inequalities within the fashion industry. Amid calls for greater accountability and ethical awareness, efforts are being made within and beyond the industry, chiefly in the cultural and education sectors, to decentralize fashion: to make the conception, creation and consumption of fashionable dress and appearance less 'western'-centric.

Supporting this premise, Hang-Ups argues that purposeful and permanent change within the fashion industry and fashion education is more likely if it is understood how the contemporary industry became 'western'-centric. To institute effective change, it is necessary to revert to first principles and understand how the fashion industry developed into what it is today. 

During a period when the concepts of fashion, history and culture are being intensely scrutinized, and with suggestions they are reaching their nadir, the imperative to understand the extent to which they relate, and facilitate the presentation of people's fashionable bodies, is urgent. Hang-Ups explores the origins and consequences of the fashion industry's 'western'-centrism by focusing on nine binaries, defined in the crucible of empire, that continue to be sites of negotiation as the 'west's' traditions and ideals are contested by different cultural perspectives and changing global realities.

Reflections on the Causes and Consequences of Fashion’s ‘Western’-Centrism

Hang-Ups

Through an astonishing series of interviews, Gay Men's Style will take you on a dizzying journey through shops, bars, clubs, gyms, workplaces and global city streets. Based on the lived experience of gay men of all ages from the UK, USA, Europe, Australia and Japan, Shaun Cole calls for a more nuanced understanding of gay male dress and style.

Gay male identities in the 21st century are increasingly intersectional, fluid and flexible, from hyper-masculinity and muscularity seen in clubs and on the pages of gay magazines to self-knowing drag culture and androgynous gender play in the fashion industry. Gay Men's Style explores these multiple identities and the ways in which gay men self-identify and present themselves to the world through dress. This analysis is set alongside seismic shifts in technology, global communication and gay rights to redress and readdress the subject of gay men's style in a time of social and sexual upheaval.

Fashion, Dress and Sexuality in the 21st Century

Gay Men's Style

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, institutionalized system. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, Yuniya Kawamura provides a complete exploration of the field.

Two two new chapters have been added for this third edition, covering 'The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of Fashion Systems' and 'Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion' respectively. 

There's also more on:
- the metaverse as the latest fashion system
- the de-Westernization of fashion
- postmodern discourse on fashion's relationship to race, gender and class
- social media as consumption, production, evaluation, and marketing
- fashion weeks, including Modest Fashion Week, Black Fashion Week, the Global Sustainability Fashion Week, and Queer Fashion Week

There's also a guide to sociological research in fashion, making this essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, or cultural studies.

Fashion Studies in the Postmodern Digital Era

Fashion-ology

This ground-breaking book presents a complete rethinking of the study of global fashion history, revealing the complex nature of changing fashion when viewed through the lens of time and challenging Eurocentric approaches such as the periodization of style and the arbitrary division of ?western' and ?non-western' fashion. Through object-based case studies of garments from the ancient past through to the 21st century, Margaret Maynard reveals the countless ways the temporal is woven into our attire. Fashion in Time is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and dress history, material culture studies, cultural anthropology, archaeology and related fields.

A World View

Dressed in Time

For hundreds of years consumers and scholars have acknowledged that food is affected by the same rapid shifts in taste and consumption as clothing. Trends in fashion and in food are increasingly being marketed in tandem and sold as fashionable commodities to reinforce capitalist power. Yet despite this, the reciprocal relationship between fashion and food has not been fully explored - until now. Gastrofashion from Haute Cuisine to Haute Couture examines the relationship between food and fashion in clothing, style, and dress in all its manifestations, from the restaurant to the catwalk, to cookbooks, diet fads, slow food, fast fashion, celebrity chefs, artists, and musical performers. It traces the relationship between food and fashion back to the Middle Ages, to the rise of social refinements in manners, speech, clothing, and taste, when behaviours and appearances reflected social status and propriety and where the social display of wealth and privilege were inseparable from food and clothing. Nowadays, designer eateries such as Pasticceria Prada and Armani Ristorante and the display of food on fashion catwalks are the precursors of the restaurants of pre-Revolutionary France and the spectacles of world fairs and exhibitions. This much-needed book offers a substantive and incisive discussion for all those interested in the complex interrelationship between food and fashion - scholars, students, and general readers alike.

Fashion and Food

Gastrofashion from Haute Cuisine to Haute Couture

The kimono is an iconic garment with a history as rich and colourful as the textiles from which it is crafted. Deeply associated with Japanese culture both past and present, it has often been thought of as a highly gendered, rigidly traditional and unchanging national costume. This book challenges that perception, revealing the nuanced meanings and messages behind the kimono from the point of view of its wearers and producers, many of whom - both men and women - see the garment as a vehicle for self-expression. 

Taking a material culture approach, The Social Life of Kimono is the first study to combine the history of the kimono as a fashionable garment with an in-depth exploration of its multifaceted role today on both the street and the catwalk. Through case studies covering historical advertising campaigns, fashion magazines, interviews with contemporary kimono designers, large scale and small craft producers, and consumers who choose to wear them, The Social Life of Kimono gives a unique insight into making and meaning of this complex garment.

Japanese Fashion Past and Present

The Social Life of Kimono

An exploration of the rich creative influence of Italian Renaissance art on the designs of contemporary Italian fashion houses &nbsp; Successful Italian fashion houses such as Armani, Dolce &amp; Gabbana, and Versace are among the most high-profile and cutting-edge on the global fashion scene. Many of the innovative designs created by these and other major Italian houses draw on imagery from Italy’s rich cultural and artistic past. Weaving together insightful texts and vivid illustrations, this book explores the creative, cultural, and social dialogues between contemporary Italian fashion houses and the enduring legacy of Renaissance Italy. &nbsp; During the Renaissance, the Italian peninsula was dominated by powerful aristocratic families or “houses,” such as the Medici in Florence and the Sforza in Milan, whose members used fashion and art to communicate their power. Through essays by scholars and fashion industry professionals, including Luca Missoni of the House of Missoni and Stefania Ricci, director of the Ferragamo Museum, this book provides an insider look at the creative connections between Italian Renaissance “houses” and contemporary Italian fashion houses, and the design innovations that celebrate the vital legacy of Italian Renaissance imagery. Art directed by Luca Stoppini, former Vogue Italia creative director, this book features an inventive, oversize design reminiscent of Vogue magazine’s storied annual “September Issue,” conveying a gripping story about contemporary Italian fashion and enlivened with runway and art images, as well as original photography inspired by nostalgic glossy editorials. &nbsp; Distributed for the Cleveland Museum of Art &nbsp; Exhibition Schedule: &nbsp; Cleveland Museum of Art (November 9, 2025–February 1, 2026)

The Enduring Italian Houses

Renaissance to Runway

Reclaiming Intimacy in a Disconnected World

The Love Fix

A Fashion Revolutionary

Vivienne Westwood

A Most Paradoxical Question

Can Feminism be African?

An illuminating exploration of fashion philosophy told by the brilliant Alessandro Michele, Creative Director of Gucci, and Emanuele Coccia, one of the most distinguished contemporary philosophers.

Untitled

Sex, Gender, and Politics explores how to think about political behavior based on empirical evidence of sex differences in attitudes and behaviors within the context of gendered norms and institutions. Drawing upon advancements in fields such as social psychology, cognitive neuroscience, behavioral economics, and even behavioral genetics, Rebecca J. Hannagan uses a biosocial approach to think about sex, gender, and political behavior.

A Biosocial Approach to Political Behavior

Sex, Gender, and Politics

Why the Fight for LGBTQ+ Equality Is Not Yet Won and What We Can Do About It

Outrage

With this undergraduate textbook, understand the general principles and practices of marketing within the world of fashion.

Strategies and Innovative Practices for Brand Positioning

Fashion Marketing

Where slaves became drag queens - and changed the world

The House of Swann

Some Men In London: Queer Life, 1945-1959

Unti Nonfiction

Anti-Fascists in Search of the Beloved

The Captive Maternal

Antigender Fashion

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